Chain-stitch sewing machine



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CHAIN STITCH SEWING MACHINE Filed A ril'ls. 1932 8 Sheets-Sheet 7 Dec. 19, 1933. A. H. DIE VOE CHAIN STITCH SEWING MACHINE Filed April 15. 1932 s Sheets-Sheet 8 'I-Oli 71/07/11 4.0:

Patented Dec. 19, 1933 r new CHAIN-STITCH SEWING MACHINE Albert "H. De vc Westfleld, N. .L, assignor to The Singer Manufacturing Company, Elizabeth,

N. J., a corporation of New Jersey .Application April 15, 1932. Serial No. 605,407

42 Claims. (01.112-81) This invention relates to improvements in stitch-forming mechanisms for sewing-machines generally, and is particularly adapted for effecting the production of ornamental open-work seams, such as hemstitching and the like.

The present invention has for an object to provide an improved looper mechanism for cooperation with the needle or needles of a chainstitch sewing machine, and more specifically for cooperation with an endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needle, or needles.'

Another object of this invention is to provide a commercially practical chain-stitch hemstitching machine. Other and more specific objects of the invention will be apparent from the following description and claims.

In a prior efiort to provide a chain-stitch hemstitching machine, represented by the U. S. Patent to L. Onderdonk, No. 962,973, June 28, 1910, the needles were offset in the line of seam formation to accommodate the cooperating threadcarryingloopers, thereby presenting the undesirable condition of the needles simultaneously working at. opposite sides of successive piercer openings, instead of both sides of the same piercer opening, with the attendant uncertainty of clean penetration of the partially worked piercer opening by the finishing needle and piercer. and particularly for diflerent adjustments of the amplitude of advance of the work by the feeding mechanism. The prior construction furthermore presents the inherent defects of improperly starting and finishing a hemstitch seam and of being unadapted for effecting the production of curved or sharply angled hem-' stitched seams.

The present improvement is designed to overcome the inherent defects in the prior machine by the provision of stitch-forming mechanism including a chain-stitch looper mechanism capable of cooperation with a pair of needles which are disposed abreast with respect to the direction of feed at opposite sides of a piercer.

The invention consists in the devices, combinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter described in connection with the accompanying drawings, and pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings, Fig. 1 represents a vertical, longitudinal section of a hemstitching machine containing a preferred embodiment of the present invention. Fig. 2 represents a rearside elevation of the machine. Fig. 3 is a front end elevation ofthe bracket-arm head of the machine with the face-plate removed, and showing the bed-plate in transverse section. Fig. 4 is a detail view in top plan of the needle-thread take-up members, with the needle and piercer-bars in section. Fig. 5 is a section of the machine bracket-arm substantially on' the line 55 of Fig. 2. Fig. 6 is a sectional view of the slack-thread 50 controllers substantially on the line 66 of Fig.

3, and Fig. 7 a section thereof on the line 77 of Fig. 2. Fig. 8 is a bottom plan view of the machine. Fig. 9 is a sectional view through the bed-plate substantially on the line 7'7 of Fig. 1. Figs. 10, 11, and 12 are detail views of thelooper actuating cranks. Fig. 13 is a sectionalview of the bracket-arm standard substantially on the line 13-13 of Fig. 1. Fig. 14 represents a perspective view of the loop-detainers and Fig. 15 a similar view of the needle-guide and carrier for the loop-detainers. Fig. 16 is a perspective view of the detainer carrying rock-shaft. Fig. 17 is a topplan view of the clothor bed-plate, with the bedslides and throat-plate removed and with the bracket-arm standard in horizontal section. Fig.

18 is a substantially vertical section of one of the looper-carriers. Fig. 19 is a vertical section of the looper-supporting bracket substantially on the longitudinal axis of the loop-detainer rock-shaft. Fig. 20 represents perspective views of the presser-foot parts illustrated in detached relationship. Fig. 21 represents a top-plan view of a looper mechanism, including both thread-carrying and non-thread-carrying loopers in their loop-seizing positions with respect to the two needles shown in section. Fig. 22 represents an elevation of the left hand or non-thread-carrying looper and of the thread-detainer as viewed from the left in the position indicated in Fig. 21. Fig. 23 represents an elevation of the right hand or thread-carrying looper and of the thread-detainer as viewed from the right in Fig. 21. Fig. 24 is a view similar to Fig. 21 and in a succeeding position of the looper mechanism in which the loop-detainer fangs are beginning to enter the respective thread-loops and the loopers have been moved sidewise to begin their retracting movements. Figs. 25 and 26 are respectively left hand and ,right hand views in elevation of the looper mechanism parts in positions thereof corresponding to Fig. 24. Fig. 27 is a top-plan view of the looper mechanism in a position thereof succeeding that illustrated in Fig. 24 and at about the mid position ofadvancing movement of the loopdetainer. Fig. 28 is a left hand view in elevation of the parts in the positions thereof corresponding to Fig. 27. Fig. 29 is a rear side elevation of the looper mechanism illustrated in Fig. 27. Fig.

30 15a top-plan view of the looper mechanism in no thread-loops spread by the detainers.

the loop-shedding positions of the loopers. Figs. 31 and 32 are respectively left hand and right hand views in elevation of the parts in positions thereof corresponding to Fig. 30. Fig. 33 is a top-plan view of the loopers and loop-detainers in substantially the retracted positions of the loopers, with the needles beginning to enter the Figs. 34 and 35 are respectively left hand and right hand views in elevation of the looper mechanism parts in positions thereof corresponding to Fig. 33. Fig. 36 is a rear side elevation of the threaddetainers, with the needles entering the threadloops upon the detainers. Fig. 3'7 is a top-plan view of the throat-plate and of the feed-dog, with the latter in its rising position. Fig. 38 represents perspective views of the needle-thread nipper releasing mechanism, with parts thereof in detached relationship. Fig. 39 is a top-plan view of a modified looper arrangement according to which two non-thread carrying loopers are employed. Fig. 40 represents another modification in which two thread-carrying loopers are shown as cooperating with the thread-detainers.

Needle-actuating mechanism Referring to the drawings, the present improvements have been embodied in a hemstitching machine having needle-vibrating mechanism of the general character disclosed in the U. S. Patent to G. M. Eames et al., No. 1,721,072, July 16, 1929. The machine has the usual framework including a bedor cloth-plate 1, from which rises a hollow standard 2 of an overhanging bracket-arm 3 terminating in a head 4. Journaled in suitable bearings provided in the overhanging bracket-arm is a rotary main-shaft 5, carrying at one end a belt-pulley 6 and at its opposite end a crank-disk '7, having a crankpin 8 connected by a specially constructed link 9 with a pin projecting laterally from a collar 10 suitably clamped upon a needle-bar 11.

The needle-bar 11 is journaled for vertical reciprocation in bearings provided in the head 4 and carries at its lower end a supporting plate 12 pivotally sustaining a pair of. needle-carriers 13 and 14 in which the needles 15 and 16 are suitably secured. Fixed upon the needle-carriers 13, 14, are the vertically directed guide-rods 1'1 and 18 having sliding swivel connections with crank-arms 19 and 20 clamped upon the front ends of horizontally disposed rock-shafts 21 and 22 suitably journaled in the lower portion of the bracket-arm head 4. Secured upon the rearward ends of the rock-shafts 21, 22 are oppositely directed crank-arms 23 and 24 connected by links 25 and 26 with corresponding arms of bell-crank levers 27 and 28 fulcrumed adjacent to each other upon the rearward side of the bracket-arm head 4. The other arms of said bell-crank levers are pivotally connected to the forward ends of horizontally disposed pitman-rods 29 and 30 of which the opposite ends are respectively pivoted to blocks 31 and 32 adjustably secured in adjacent guideways provided in a vibratory arm 33.

The arm 33 has an elongated hub 34 loosely journaled upon a rock-shaft 35 disposed transversely of and below the main-shaft 5, said rockshaft being journaled in suitable bearings provided in the bracket-arm standard 2. The vibratory arm 33 carries a roller-stud 36 entering a cam-groove 37 provided in the periphery of a needle-vibrating cam 38 suitably secured upon the hub-sleeve 39 of a spur-gear 40 rotatably journaled upon a stub-shaft 41 suitably fixed in the bracket arm 3 below and parallel with the main-shaft 5. The spur-gear 40 meshes with a pinion 42 of one third the size of the spur-gear and is suitably secured upon the main-shaft 5.

Piercer mechanism The present machine also includes a piercer mechanism commercially well known in hemstitchlng machines. This mechanism includes a piercer 43 disposed between and recessed at opposite sides thereof to receive the needles, said piercer having a rearwardly offset shank secured in a piercer-holder 44 carried by the lower end of a piercer-bar 45 journaled for vertically reciprocatory movements in the bracket-arm head 4. Secured upon the piercer-bar 45 is a collar 46 to which is pivotally connected a crank-arm 4'7 of a rock-shaft 48 journaled in bushings 49 and 50 suitably fixed in spaced bearing lugs 51 and 52 at the rear side 'of the machine bracket-arm. Fixedly clamped upon the rock-shaft 48 is a crank-arm 53 (Fig. 5) pivotally connected to one end of a pitman 54 of which the opposite end is provided with a strap embracing an eccentric 55 upon the main-shaft 5. From this it will be understood that the piercer reciprocates once for each needle reciprocation, the relative timing being such that the piercer both descends and rises in advance of the corresponding movements of the needles. If desired, there may also be employed an auxiliary piercer 56 disposed in advance of the piercer 43 and carried by an auxiliary holder 5'7 secured upon a supporting bar 58 extending from the needle-carrier plate 12.

Feeding mechanism The work-feeding mechanism employed isof the well known type in which the work is advanced once only during the formation of three successive stitches. A lower four-motion feed-dog 59 is carried by a feed-bar 60 of which one end is pivotally connected with a crank-yoke 61 of a feed rock shaft 62 journaled in suitable bearings at the front under side of the bed plate 1. The forked opposite end of the feed-bar 60 is operatively connected to a crank-arm 63 of a feedlift rock-shaft 64 journaled in suitable bearings at the rear under side of the bed-plate 1. The feed rock-shaft 62 carries a crank-arm 65 operatively connected to the lower end of a link 66 extending upwardly through a slot 6'1 in the bed-plate 1, theupper end of. said link being adjustably secured upon a segment-lever 68 disposed outside of the bracket-arm. The segmentlever 68 is secured upon a fulcrum-shaft 69, disposed parallel with the main-shaft 5 and suitably journaled in the bracket-arm standard 2. Carried by the segment-lever 68 is a roller-stud 70 entering a cam-groove '71 formed in the side face of a feed-cam '72, suitably secured upon the hubsleeve 39 of the spur-gear 40 and disposed adjacent to the needle-vibrating cam 38 within the bracket-arm. From the foregoing it will be understood that the feed-cam '72 rotates once only for three rotations of the main-shaft, the camgroove '71 being so formed as to impart a workadvancing impulse to the feed-dog 59, while the needles are out of the work, and a retarded return movement during the formation of three successive stitches. 1

.Clamped upon the feed-lift rock-shaft 64 is a crank-arm '13 connected byv a link 74, within the bracket-arm standard 2, to a rock-arm pivotally mounted upon the fulcrum-shaft 69. The rockarm 75 carries a roller-stud 76 entering a feedlift cam-groove 77 in the side face of the spurgear 40. In the present case, the cam-groove 7'7 is so formed and its rotation so timed with respect to the work-advancing movements of the feed-dog 59 that the latter after a forward workadvancing movement thereof is lowered during the succeeding descending movement of the needles, remains substantially stationary while the needles are in the work, returns slowly during the two succeeding needle reciprocations and rises with the needles during the third reciprocation of the latter.

The feed-dog 59 operates in parallel feed-slots provided in a throat-plate 78 suitably secured upon the cloth-plate 1, said throat-plate having an auxiliary-piercer aperture 80 in advance of a piercerand needle-slot 81 extending transverse to the direction of feed. Opening into the rearward edge of said slot 81 is a pair of inner feedslots 82 disposed between the outer feed-slots 83 at opposite sides of the needle-slot 81. The forward teeth of the feed-dog 59 operating in the feed-slots 82 rise within the needleslot 81 and thereby serve to lift out of said needle-slot any portion of the work which may be forced thereinto by the needles and piercer. When the feeddog moves forward to advance the work, the front ends of the feed-slots 82 are left open and thereby serve to provide the usual thread-loop clearance desirable in the formation of chain-stitches. The retarded return movement of the feed-dog leaves the slots open the requisite length of time for forming the succeeding stitches of a hemstitch figure.

Presser-foot Opposed to the feed-dog 59 is a presser-foot having a shank 84 secured upon the lower end of the usual spring-depressed presser-bar 85 journaled for vertical endwise movements in suitable bearings provided in the bracket-arm head '4. Referring more particularly to Figs. 3 and 20 of the drawings, the presser-foot shank 84 has a foot-plate supporting bracket 86 recessed in its under face to provide for vertically yielding movements of three spring tongues 87, 88, 89 formed adjacent each other in a fiaUspring-plate 90 secured by screws, as 91, to the under face of.

the piercer-aperture 96, the foot-plate 94 is provided with a needle and piercer-slot 97 which is left open at its rearward end by cutting away the heel of said foot-plate to receive a chainingofi or seam-engaging foot-plate 98. The upper face of the foot-plate 98 has a spacing-block 99 at its forward end to receive screws by means of which said foot-plate is secured to the forward end of the spring-tongue 88. Secured in like manner to the forward end of the spring-tongue 89 is a spacing block 100 upon the upper face and.

intermediate the ends of a foot-plate 101 disposed closely adjacent to the foot-plates 94 and 98.

By supporting the foot-plates 94 and 101 intermediate the ends thereof by the spring-tongues described, said foot-plates are capable of yielding and rocking movements independently of each other to accommodate variations in thicknesses of work. The chaining-off foot-plate is likewise free to yield independently of the other foot-plates. In order to properly distribute to the several foot-plates the spring pressure exerted upon the presser-bar, there is provided a substantially horizontally disposed compensating plate 102 having triangularly-arranged pointed nubs 103, 104 and 105 on its under face, each bearing upon one of the spring-tongues. The nubs 103 and 104' bear upon the springtongues 87 and 89 at points close to the free ends of said tongues, while the third nub 105 bears upon the tongue 88 approximately midway between the ends thereof, whereby the chainingoff foot is under slightly less pressure than the other foot-plates. In order to transmit the pressure of the'presser-bar to the foot-plates and to provide for universal rocking movements of the compensating-plate 102, a conically pointed screw 86 is vertically threaded into the shank-bracket 86 of the presser-foot, with the pointed end of the screw projecting below said bracket .to freely enter a rounded depression 102 provided in the upper face of the plate 102 substantially centrally of the triangle formed. by the plate nubs. The screw 86' is adjustably secured by a suitable nut in a position such that, when the presser-foot is raised, the compensating plate is confined by the point of the screw against edgewise movement, but is free to rock independently of the footplates. However, in the lowered position of the presser-foot with the usual spring pressure appliedto the presser-bar, the plate 102 is free to rock conformably with vertically yielding movements of the individual foot-plates, and to this end the under face of the shank-bracket 86 is suitably recessed to afiord the necessary clearance for the compensating-plate.

Looper mechanism Cooperating with the needles in the formation of chain-stitches is a looper mechanism including a pair of loopers adapted to seize the needlethread loops, either or both of which loopers may be of the threaded or non threaded types, dependent upon whether it is desired to effect the production of double-thread or single-thread chain-stitches. With the exception of the modirfications represented by Figs. 39 and 40, the machine illustrated in the accompanying drawings has an eye-pointed looper 106 for cooperation with the needle 16 in the formation of doublethread chain-stitches, and a hook -pointed looper 107 for cooperation with the needle 15 in the formation of single-thread chain-stitches, said looper 107 having a loop-detaining spur 107' adjacent to its point. It is to be understood that the primary purpose of mainly illustrating both types of loopers is in the interest of obtaining a better understanding of the stitch-forming operation of the respective loopers.

The looper 106 has a blade provided with the usual thread-eye near its point and an additional thread-aperture at its heel where said blade terminates in a laterally offset shank detachably secured in a horizontally-disposed socketed looper-carrying arm 110. The arm 110 is adjustably clamped upon the reduced upper end of a vertically disposed looper-carrying rockshaft 112, which is journaled for oscillatory movements about its longitudinal axis in a. vertically apertured rocking sleeve 113 provided intermediate its ends with a boss 114 apertured to receive a horizontally disposed fulcrum-pin 115 150 suitably secured in said boss. The fulcrum-pin 115 is pivotally mounted in spaced bearing apertures of a looper-bracket 116 secured, for adjustment crosswise of the line of seam forma tion, upon a shelf 117 integral with the bedplate 1.

Extending laterally from the lower end of the rock-shaft 112 is a crank-arm 118 in the free end of which is secured the threaded stem 119 of a ball 120 journaled in a ball-socket carrier-plate 121 detachably secured upon one member of a split sleeve 122 embracing an inclined shaftcrank 123 (Figs. 10 and 11). The shaft-crank 123 terminates at one end in a sleeve-confining head 124 and at its opposite end in a crank-dividing head 125 which, in the present case, is integral with one end of another shaft-crank 126 inclined oppositely to the shaft-crank 123, the other end of said shaft-crank 126 terminating in a sleeveconfining head 127. The crank-heads 124 and 127 are secured upon horizontally alined looperactuating shaft-sections 128 and 129, of which the main section 128 is journaled at one end in a bearing-lug 131 depending from the bed-plate 1. Adjacent to its other end the shaft-section 128 is journaled in a bushing 132 fixed in a framelug 133, and secured upon the end of said shaftsection is a bevel-gear 134 in mesh with a bevelgear 135 upon the lower end of a. vertically disposed intermediate shaft 136. The shaft 136 is journaled in suitable bearings within the bracketarm standard 2 and at its upper end has a bevelgear 137 driven by a bevel-gear 138 carried by the main-shaft 5. The shaft-section 129 is journaled in a specially constructed bearing-bushing 140 fixed in a frame-lug 141 and herein later referred to. The ends of the shaft-cranks 123 and 126 adjacent to the shaft-sections are offset from the axis of rotation of said shaft-sections to an equal extent and in the same direction, while the adjacent ends of said shaft-cranks converge toward a common point in the crank-dividing head 125 which is likewise offset from the axis of rotation of the shaft 128, 129. Consequently, the cranks are not only inclined with respect to the axis of their shaft, but have a gyratory movement about said axis.

Embracing the shaft-crank 126 is a split sleeve 142, confined against endwise movements upon its crank by the crank-heads 125 and 127, to which sleeve 142 is secured a ball-socket carrier-plate '143 affording a journal for a ball 144 carried by a crank-arm 145 at the lower end of a vertically disposed looper-carrier rock-shaft 146. The rock-shaft 146 is journaled in a vertically-apertured rocking-sleeve. 147 having intermediate its ends a boss 148 apertured transversely of the rock-shaft 146 to receive a fulcrum-pin 149 suitably secured in said boss. The fulcrum-pin 149- is pivotally mounted in spaced bearing apertures provided in a looper-bracket 150 secured, for adjustment crosswise of the line of seam formation, upon a frame-shelf 151 at the under side of the bed-plate 1. Upon the reduced upper end of the rock-shaft 146 is adjustably clamped an arm 152 socketed to receive the offset shank of the looper 107.

From the foregoing description of the looperactuating mechanism, it will be understood that the blades of the loopers 106 and 107 are reciprocated endwise by the oscillating movements of the looper-carrying rock-shafts 112 and 146 about their longitudinal axes imparted by the respective shaft-cranks 123 and 126, and that said loopers are shifted sidewise by virtue of rocking movements imparted to said rock-shafts about the axes of the fulcrum-pins 115 and 149. The endwise and sidewise movements of the loopers are so timed that the looper paths define elliptical fields, as illustrated in dotted lines in Fig. 30 of the drawings. These elliptical flelds are substantially horizontal and are locatedentirely at the relatively remote sides of the needles 15 and 16, i. e., the looper movements are performed at the sides of the needles opposite to the piercer sides thereof, thereby providing for an abreast arrangement of the needles with an intermediate piercer.

In order to efliciently lubricate the sleeve-bearing surfaces of the shaft-cranks 123 and 126, said cranks are provided with longitudinal bores 153 and 154, which are preferably connected in the crank-dividing head 125 and are intersected at intervals by a plurality of radial apertures 155 in the shaft-cranks. The crank-bore 154 communicates with a bore.156 inthe crank-head 127, which bore 156 opens into the shaft-aperture 127 in said head. Referring to Fig. 1, the bushing 140 is closed at its outer end by constructing it in cartridge form or by otherwise sealing its outer end, and the shaft-section 129 terminates short of said closed end of the bushing to provide a compression-chamber 140 within the bushing adjacent to the end of the shaft, which chamber opens into a bore 129' provided in the shaft-section 129 longitudinally thereof. The shaft-section 129 has in its bearing surface a spiral groove 157 arranged to progress toward the bushing-chamber 140' in the operation of the machine. The bushing 140 is provided with one or more lubricant-ducts communicating with a vertically disposed stand-pipe 158 which provides convenient means for supplying lubricant to the bearing surface of the shaft-section 129 from above the cloth-plate, it being understood that the usual slide-plates are employed adjacent, to the throat-plate for access to the looper mechanism and that one of said slide-plates overlies the stand-pipe 158. Lubricant supplied 'to the stand-pipe 158 passes through the bushing ducts to the shaft bearing surface of the bushing 140 and upon operation of the machine will be forcibly conducted by the spiral groove 157 to the compression-chamber 140'. Any lubricant thus applied to said chamber is forced through the shaft-bore 129' into the crank-head bore 156 and thence into the crank-bores 154 and 153, from which it passes through the radial ducts 155 to the bearing surfaces of the shaft-cranks 123 and 126. An additional stand-pipe 159 is preferably provided in the frame-shelf 117 tosupply lubricant to the bearing in the lug 131 of the shaftsection 128.

Loop-spreaders and needle-guides 'or'adjacent limbs of thread-loops presented by the loopers. The adjacent portions of the farms which define the slot 163 merge, toward the free spreading edges terminating in the substantially parallel and straight outer edges of the fangs to provide loop-seizing points. The fangs have grooved or concave upper faces 166 and 167, affording clearance for the needles in the down strokes of the latter and insuring entrance of the needles into the thread-loops retained and spread by said fangs, said grooves being wide enough, between the side walls thereof, to receive the needles on both their narrowly and widely spaced down strokes.

The shank 162 of the fangs is'adjustably secured by a screw 168 upon a fang-carrying and needle-guiding head 169 which is slotted below ,the fangs to provide spaced lugs 170 and 171 of which the opposed-inner faces 172 and 173 are beveled or inclined in a downwardly approaching direction to serve as guides for the descending needles and as guards for preventing undue deflection of the needles into the paths of the loopers. Projecting from the needle-guidin head 169, substantially centrally between the lugs 170, 1'71 and between the paths of the needles in the direction of seam formation, is a wedgeshaped iln174 of downwardly increasing width, said fin having its upper or sharper edge extending into close proximity to the entrance to the fang slot 163. The fin 174 serves as a guard preventing interference with each other of the adjacent limbs of the needle-thread loops and insuring that saidneedle-thread loops are bowed on the looper sides of the needles. In addition, the fin 174 by its wedge-shaped form prevents any lagging of the usual lateral movements of the needles while in the work in hemstitching machines, and in combination with the needle-guiding faces of the lugs 170, 171 positively insures the proper positions of the needles with respect to their cooperating loopers.

The needle-guiding, and fang-carrying head 169 has a shank 175 extending laterally therefrom and detachably securedupon a crank-member 176 of a horizontal rock-shaft 177 disposed substantially transverse to the direction of feed, said crank-member being suitably. recessed to provide clearance for the carrier of the looper 106. The rock-shaft 177 is joumaled inspaced bearingbrackets 178 and 179 suitably secured upon the loopen-bracket 116, said rock-shaft carrying a forked crank-arm 180 connected by a rlink.l81 with an upwardly inclined arm 182, which in the present case is shown as detachably secured upon its hub 183 pivotally mounted upon a fulcrumshaft 184 rigidly projectingfrom the frame-lug 131. At its free end, the fulcrum-shaft 184 carries a well 185 packed with wicking for supplying lubricant through a longitudinal bore in said shaft and through bore-intersecting radial apertures to the bearing surface of the shaft. A tube 186 fixed in an aperture in the bed-plate above the well 185 provides convenient means for supplying lubricant to the wicking in the well. Projecting from the hub-183 is a fork 187 straddling a three cornered cam 188 suitably secured upon the looper-actuating shaft-section 128, said cam actuating the rock-shaft'177 and providing for a short dwell at the direction reversing points of rocking movement of the shaft.

'Looper-thread guides 1 adjacent to the rearward side of the standard 2. The other ends of the grooves each terminate in a recess 191 connectedby a transverse groove 192 with the usual cloth-plate opening 193 provided for the feeding and looper mechanism. The edge of the cloth-plate opening 193 where it is intersected by the groove 192 is rounded to serve as a guide for a looper-thread L. Disposed in the recess 191 is a grooved thread-guiding roller 194 rotatable upon a vertically directed spindle 195 of which one end is seated in the machine bed-plate and its other end in an aperture in a recess coverplate 196. The cover-plate 196 is suitably secured in said recess 191 and has a finger 197 overlying the end of the cloth-plate thread-groove, the free end of the finger 197 being slightly upturned to facilitate introduction of the looperthread under said finger and about the roller into the cloth-plate opening 193.

Secured in a lug 198 of the looper-actuating crank-sleeve 122 is the vertically directed stem of a take-up rod 199 bent forwardly and then laterally, about which rod the thread is led from the groove 192 to the looper. Only one looper-thread take-up is illustrated in the drawings, as only one thread-carrying looper is employed in the present machine, but it will be understood that the lug 198 of the crank-sleeve 142 can be similarly provided with a take-up rod, when employing two thread-carrying loopers, orv that the take-up may be omitted from both crank-sleeves when using two non-thread carrying loopers.

Fulcrumed upon the bracket-arm standard at the rearside thereof is a two-armed lever 200, of which one arm carries at its free end a pair of self-threading wire-loops 201 and is yieldingly held in the cloth-plate recess 190 by a spring 202. To introduce the looper-thread L into one or both of the cloth-plate thread-grooves 189, it is only necessary to manipulate the lever 200 to expose the guide-loops 201 for threading purposes, and then to release the lever after the proper guideloop or loops have been threaded. t

7 Automatic presser-foot lifter Upon the forward end of the rock-shaft 35 is secured an upwardly directed arm 203 having at its free end a horizontally apertured boss 204 projecting into an aperture in the bracket-arm 3. Slidingly disposed in said boss 204 is a springpressed plunger 205 normally urged out of engagement with a cam-nose 206 provided upon a side face of the spur-gear 40, the usual or any suitable means being provided for latching said plunger in cam-nose engaging position. Secured upon the rearward end of the rock-shaft 35 is an arm 207 connected by a link 208 with the usual presser-foot lifter-lever 209, fulcrumed upon the rear side of the bracket-arm 3, whereby the presser-foot isintermittently lifted in the operative position of the plunger 205, to provide for more conveniently turning the work.

Looper-thread controlling mechanism 213. Secured by a screw 214 for movement with the rock-shaft arm 207 and joumaled upon the hub of said arm is'a tension-releasing arm 215 shaped to have its free end disposed between the tension-bracket and the arm-standard to engage the pins 213 and release the tensions upon manual operation of the presser-foot'lifter 209.

The rear side of the bracket-arm is formed with the usual boss 216 having an opening affording access to the mechanism within the bracket-arm, and in the present machine said boss is provided with a bearing for an extension of the piercer rock-shaft 48. Clamped upon said rock-shaft, within the boss 216, is a rock-arm 217 from a side face of which projects a lug 218 apertured to fixedly receive a thread pull-01f rod 219. The pulloff rod 219 is disposed adjacent to an ear 220 having thread-guiding apertures 221, said car being offset laterally from its shank 222, which is secured by a screw 223 upon a nipper-supporting plate 224 suitably fixed upon the boss 216. Mounted upon said plate, adjacent to the pull-off rod 219, is a spring-pressed thread-nipper 226 of any usual or suitable construction and includin a. nipper-releasing pin 227. Fulcrumed upon a pivot-bolt 228 upon the supporting-plate 224 is a carrier-arm 229 having an offsetlug 230 engageable by a nose 231 of a plate adjustably secured by screws 232 upon the presser-lifter link 208. The carrier-arm 229 has a stud-pin 233 projecting through an arcuate slot 224 in the supporting-plate 224, which pin is acted upon by a spring 234 housed in a socketed lug 235 of said supporting-plate to normally swing the lug 230 end of the carrier-arm upwardly to an extent limited by the upper end of said arcuate slot 224'. Suitably secured upon the carrier-arm 229 is the flat.

spring-shank of an upwardly directed wedge-arm 236 of which the inner face, adjacent to its free end, is stepped to provide an inclined shoulder 237. The wedge-arm is interposed between the inner end of the nipper-releasing pin 227 and the rock-arm 217 which has stepped cam-faces 238 and 239 in its free end.

During the operation of the machine, the free end of the wedge-arm 236 is positioned to be engaged by the deeper cam-face 238 which rocks across the wedge-arm inclined shoulder v237; thereby intermittently flexing said arm and reciprocating the nipper-pin 227 endwise to alternately nip and release the thread. The looperthread L is led from its supply, through a threadguiding aperture 221, over the pull-off rod 219, through the nipper 226 to one of the tension devices 212 and thence to the lever guide-loop 201. The nipper release occurs during the downward movement of the rock-arm 217, at which time the pull-off rod 219 is moving away from the thread led thereover, but as the thread is again nipped during the beginning of the upstroke of the rock-arm 217, the rod 219 engages and pulls off thread from its supply.

When the lifter lever 209 is manually actuated to raise the presser-foot for insertion or removal of work, the nose 231 carried by the lifter-link engages the carrier-arm lug 230 to force the wedge-arm 236 between the rock-arm cam-face 239 and the nipper-releasing pin 227, thereby releasing the nipper. At the same time, the tension-releasing arm 215 is actuated to engage the releasing pins of the tension devices. It is to be understood, however, that there is suflicient lostmotion clearance between the lifter-link nose 231 and the carrier-arm lug 230 to maintain the carrier-arm 229 stationary during the operation of the machine. Likewise, the presser-lifting movements imparted by the rock-shaft 35 are insufficient to effect release of the tensions 212.

Needle-thread controller mechanism 48, is the bossed lower end of a tension-and-nipper bracket 240 having an overhanging shelf 241 upon which are mounted any usual or suitable thread-tensions 242 and a thread-nipper 243, including tension-releasing pins 244 and a nipper-releasing pin 245 extending below said shelf 241. Engageable withlsaid pins is a releasingarm 246 suitably guided for vertical movements upon the bracket 240. Depending from the releasing-arm 246 is a rod 247 of which the laterally bent lower end overlies the presser-foot lifter 209, whereby the tensions and nipper are released upon operation of said lifter 209 to raise the presser-foot. Abutting the lower end of the nipper-releasing pin 245 is an auxiliary pin 248 which extends through a vertical aperture in the arm 246 for engagement by a cam-lug 53' provided upon the upper face of the crank-arm 53 which actuates the piercer rock-shaft, whereby the nipper 243 is automatically released during a part of each stitch-forming cycle. Carried by the crank-arm 53 is a thread pull-off rod 249 vibrated in a path between the nipper and a suitably apertured thread-guiding arm 250 to which the needle-threads N are led from their supply, it being understood that the rod 249 acts to pull thread from its supply at a time when the nipper is closed.

The bracket-arm head 4 is provided with an apertured boss 251 in which is suitably secured a stud 252 having a flanged free end carrying a bracket-plate 253. A portion of the boss-aperture for the stud 252 is enlarged to provide an annular recess receiving a sleeve 254 having a peripherally knurled flange or adjusting nut 255, said sleeve being secured for circular adjustment by a set-screw 256. Surrounding the stud 252, between the nut 255 and the flanged end of said stud, is a coil-spring 257 of which one end is anchored in an aperture in the nut and the other or free end extends upwardly adjacent said plate and is reversely bent to provide a threadengaging hook 258. Disposed in engagement with the side face of the bracket-plate opposite to the spring 257 side thereof is another sleeve 259 having at its outer end a flange providing a nut 260, said sleeve being adjustably secured against the bracket-plate by a screw 261 embraced bythe sleeve and threaded into the end of the stud 252. Surrounding the sleeve 259 is a coil-spring 262 having one end anchored in the nut 260 and its other or free end extending upwardly adjacent the bracket-plate 253 and reversely bent to provide a thread-engaging hook 263. The upper end of the bracket-plate has its opposite faces ribbed to provide guideways 264 extending transversely of the stud 252, said guideways being interrupted intermediate their ends to provide clearance gaps for the upwardly extending slack-thread controller springs described. Ad-

justably slidable in said guideways are spaced ribs 266 and 267 provided upon the inner faces of retainer-blocks 268, which latter are secured by a single screw 269 passing through an elongated slot 253' in the bracket-plate 252. The ribs 267 of said blocks serve to adjustably limit yielding movement of the springs in a direction responsive to the pull of the threads N, while movement of said springs in the opposite direction is limited by the opposed gap-defining ends of the bracket-plate guideway 264 and the guideribs 266. Suitably secured upon the bracket- -plate 253 is the shank of a guide-loop 270 receiving the needle-threads N from the tensions 242, the threads being then each passed into a spring hook 258 or 263 and thence forwardly to a takeup mechanism about to be described. It will be understood that the springs 258, 263 have the usual function of controlling .the thread slack during the operation of the machine, that the tensions of the springs may be individually adjusted by means of the nuts 255 and 260, and that the spring-hooks have an adjustable range of movement provided by the blocks 268.

The needle-bar link 9 has intermediate its ends a substantially horizontal recessed seat 271 in which is secured by a screw 272, one member of a U-shaped take-up holder 273 extending about the rear side of the needle-bar 11. The upwardly directed other member of said holder 273 is ribbed to provide a seat for the co spondingly grooved lower end of a take-up arm 274, secured upon the holder by screws 275. The offset free end of the arm 274 has an enlarged thread-opening 276, one of the opening-defining walls having an inclined threading slit 277. Suitably secured upon the needle-bar collar 10 to extend upwardly at opposite sides of the take-up arm 274 are the stems of self-threading threadguides 278 and 279, which accordingly are reciprocated vertically with the needle-bar, while the thread-receiving end of the take-up arm has an elliptical path of movement in a vertical plane between said thread-guides and across a line connecting said guides. The needle-threads N are led through the thread-guide 278 from the slackthread controller springs 258, 263, and are then threaded into the take-up arm opening 276 and into the thread-guide 279, from which the threads are passed through suitable fixed guides to the respective needles. The large thread-opening 276 afiords a dwell in the action upon the threadby the take-up arm 274, as the latter passes from one side to the other of the line connecting the thread-guides 278 and 279.

I Operation.

In the operation of the machine, the piercer 43 commences its descending movements before the needles have quite completed their upstroke, said piercer' reaching the lower end of its relatively shorter stroke at about the time the needles are entering the work. Following immediately upon advance of the work by the feed-dog 59,

feringwith each other and are bowed outwardly on the looper sides of the needles.

InFigs. 24, 25 and 26 of the drawings, the loopers have advanced to their extreme forward limit of movement and have been shifted slightly sidewise to provide clearance for the fangs 160, 161, which at this time begin their advancing movement. It will be observed that the blade of the thread-carrying looper 106 has entered and is detaining the needle-thread loop N and that the looper-thread loop L is opened by the lateral movement of said looper 106 for entrance by the fang 161. However, the needle-thread loop N has been entered by merely the point of the looper 107, being detained by the spur 107' of said looper and thereby carried forwardinto position for entrance by the fang 160, the slight sidewise movement of the looper 107 servingto open the loop N and to, provide the necessary clearance for the fang 160.

In the positions of the parts illustrated in Figs. 27, 28 and 29 of the drawings, the fangs 160, 161 are about midway of their advancing movement into the loops N L the inner or adjacent limbs of said loops entering'the fang- 1 slot 163 whereby said loops are held spread as illustrated more particularly in Fig. 29. As the fangs 160 and 161 reach their extreme advanced position, illustrated in Figs. 30, 31 and 32' of the drawings, the loopers 106 and 107 are on the point of shedding the needle-thread loops N N, with the needle-loop N embracing the looperthread L, the needle-loop N detained by the fang 160 and the looper-loop L detained by the fang 161.

It will be observed that the feed-dog 59, after the work-advancing movement thereof before referred to and during the'described operation of the looper mechanism-is gradually returning in its lowered position but so slowly as to leave open the front ends of the throat-plate slots 82, thereby providing the necessary thread-loop clearance.

Thepiercer begins its succeeding work-penetrating movement agabout the time the loopers begin their retracting movement, and the needles reach the top of their stroke when the fangs 160, 161 have completed their advancing movement, said needles being shifted still further apart as the needles penetrate the work in their closely they approach the pper end of their stroke. spaced relationship, i. e., theneedle's enter the Pings 1 9W pause 0r dwell in their advanced aperture produced in the work by the pierce position until the needles in their more widely while 16 needles are in the work, they are spaced relationship are about to penetrate the moved slightly sidewise in directions away from work at which tune the fangs begin their tracting movement. As illustrated in Figs. 33 to each other crosswise of the line of scam formaon Should the needles lag in this sidewise 36, inclusive, the descending needles enter the movement thereof, the wedge-shaped fin 174 of the looper mechanism, which fin is at this time swinging upwardly, insures the lateral movement of the needles into proper position thereof for seizure of the needle-thread loops N N by the loopers.

The'loopers 106 and 107 begin their endwise advancing movements in a substantially horizontal plane at about the time the needles are entering the work, and reach their 10013988121113 position, illustrated in Figs. 21, 22 and 23 of the fang-grooves 166, 167, which are wide enough to accommodate the needles when widely or narrowly spaced, the needles thus entering the thread-loops L N detained and spread by the fangs. As the needles continue their descending movements, the fangs back out of the loops detained thereby, 'thereby bringing the wedgeshaped fin into operative position with respect to the needles for the purpose previously described, said fangs pausing or dwelling for an appreciable period in their retracted position. As the needles approach the lower end of their are rising and vibrated toward each other into narrowly spaced relationship and then again descend for cooperation with the loopers. During all this time the feed-dog 59 has been slowly returning below the upper surface of the throatplate to its initial position, said feed-dog rising with the succeeding ascending movement of the needles preparatory to again feeding the work and at the completion of the three-stitch hemstitch figure.

In Fig. 39 of the drawings, another non-thread carrying looper 10'! is substituted for the threadcarrying looper 106 described, while in Fig. 40 another thread-carrying looper 106 is substituted for the described looper 107, it being understood from the foregoing description that the looper mechanism functions equally effectively whether threadcarrying or non-thread-carrying loopers are employed and that the loop-concatenation is definite and certain.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein is:-

1. In a sewing machine, an endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, a looper cooperating with said needle having an arcuate path of needle-thread loop seizing movement about an axis substantially parallel with the path of reciprocation of said needle, a loop-detainer adapted to enter the needle-thread loops seized by said looper and to spread said loops in position for entrance by said needle, and means for actuating said looper and loop-detainer.

2. In a sewing machine, an endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, a looper cooperating with said needle having an arcuate path of needle-thread loop seizing movement about an axis substantially parallel with the path of reciprocation of said needle, a loop-detainer having anarcuate path of movement about an axis substantially transverse to said axis of looper movement adapted to seize thread-loops presented by said looper and to spread theloops seized thereby for entrance by said needle, and means for actuating said looper and loop-detain'er.

3. In a sewing machine, an endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, work-feeding mechanism, a needle-thread loop seizing looper, a loop-detainer having an arcuate path of movement about an axis substantially transverse to the direction of feed'adapted to seize threadloops from said looper and to spread said loops in position for entrance by said needle, and means for actuating said looper and loop-detainer.

4. In a sewing machine, an endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, a needle-thread loop seizing looper having endwise and sidewise movements in a path defining a field entirely at one side of the needle-path of reciprocation, means for actuating said looper, and means cooperating with said looper adapted to seize a thread-loop presented by said looper and to detain said looper-presented loop in position for entrance by said needle. I

5. In a sewing machine, a vertically reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, a needle-thread loop-seizing looper having endwise and sidewise movements in a path defining a substantially horizontal field, a loop-detainer having a path of movement intersecting said field in a direction substantially normal thereto, and means for actuating said looper and loop-detainer.

6. In a sewing machine, an endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, a needle-thread loop seizing looper having endwise and sidewise movements in a path defining a field entirely at one side of the needle-path of reciprocation, a loop-detainer cooperating with said looper having a path of movement intersecting said field, and means for actuating said looper and loopdetainer.

'7. In a sewing machine, an endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, a thread-carrying looper cooperating with said needle in the seizure of thread-loops therefrom having endwise and sidewise movements in a path defining a field entirely at one side of the needle-path of reciprocation, a loop-detainer cooperating with said looper in the seizure of looper-thread loops therefrom and cooperating with said needle in the presentation of the seized looper-thread loops thereto, and means for actuating said looper and loop-retainer.

8. In a sewing machine, an endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, a needle-thread loop seizing looper having endwise and sidewise movements in a path defining a field entirely at one side of the needle-path of reciprocation, said looper having a loop-entering point and a looparresting spur, a loop-detainer cooperating with said looper in the seizure of the needle-thread loops therefrom and adapted to present said loops for entrance by the needle, and means for actuating said looper and loop-detainer.

9. In a sewing machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needles, and mechanism 'complemental to said needles in the formation of chain-stitches including a pair of loopers having endwise and sidewise movements in paths defining fields located wholly at the relatively remote sides of said needle-paths of reciprocation. V

10. In a sewing machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needles, a pair of loopers having needle-thread loop-seizing movements at the relatively remote sides of said needles, means for actuating said loopers, a pair of loop-detaining fangs adapted to seize threadloops from said loopers and to spread the looperpresented loops for entrance by said needles, and means for actuating said fangs.

11. In a sewing machine, work-feeding mechanism, a pair of endwise reciprocatory threadcarrying needles arranged abreast with respect to the direction of feed, a pair of loopers having endwise loop-seizing movements at the relatively remote sides of said needles and sidewise looperseparating and approaching movements, means for actuating said loopers, and loop-detaining means complemental to said needles and loopers 130 in the formation of chain-stitches.

12. In a sewing machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needles, a pair of loopers cooperating with said needles in the seizure of thread-loops therefrom having side- 135 wise looper-separating movements, means for actuating said loopers, a pair of loop-detainers having operative paths of movement between said loopers in the seizure of thread-loops therefrom, and means for actuating said detainers.

13. In a sewing machine, work-feeding mechanism, a pair of endwise reciprocatory threadcarrying needles arranged abreast with respect to the direction of feed, a pair of loopers cooperating with said needles in the seizure of thread- 145 loops therefrom having endwise and sidewise movements in paths defining fields at the relatively remote sides of said needles, means for actuating said loopers, a pair of loop-detainers cooperating with said loopers having paths of 150 movement intersecting said fields, and means for actuating said loop-detainers.

14. In a sewing machine, work-feeding mechanism, a pair of endwise reciprocatory threadcarrying needles arranged abreast with respect to the direction of feed, a pair of loopers havin needle-thread loop-seizing movements opposed to the direction of feed, means for actuating said loopers, a pair of loop-detainers cooperating with said loopers in front of the needles with respect to the direction of feed, and means for actuating said loop-detainers.

15. In a sewing machine, work-feeding mechanism, a pair of endwise reciprocatory threadcarrying needles, a pair ofloopers cooperating with said needles having endwise loop-seizing movements in arcuate paths about axes substantially parallel with the needle-paths of reciprocation, said looper axes being disposed at opposite sides of the line of feed, means for actuating said loopers, and loop-detaining means complemental to said needles and loopers in the formation of chain-stitches.

16. In a sewing machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory threadcarrying needles, needle-actuating mechanism including means for vibrating said needles laterally in directions toward and from each other, and mechanism complemental to said needles in the formation of chain-stitches including a pair of loopers cooperating with the respective needles at the relatively remote sides thereof in the seizure of needle-thread loops.

17. In a sewing machine, work-feeding mechanism, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory thread-carrying needles arranged abreast with respect to the direction of feed, a reciprocatory work-penetrating piercer between the needles, and mechanism complemental to said needles in the formation of chainstitches, including a pair of loopers having needlethread loop-seizing paths of movement at the sides of said needles opposite to the piercer sides thereof.

18. In a sewing machine, work-feeding mechanism, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needles arranged abreast with respect to the direction of feed, needle-actuating mechanism including means for vibrating said needles laterally in directions toward and from each other, and mechanism complemental to said needles in the formation of chain-stitches including a pair of loopers having fixed paths of movement in directions to seize the needle-thread loops.

19. In a sewing machine, work-feeding mechanism, a pair of endwise-reciprocatory and laterally-vibratory needles arranged abreast with respect to the direction of feed, needle-actuating mechanism including means for vibrating said needles relatively laterally to perform narrowly and more widely spaced work-penetrating movements, a reciprocatory work-penetrating piercer between the needles, a pair of loopers having needle-thread loop-seizing movements at the sides of the needles opposite to the piercer sides thereof, means for actuating said loopers, and means for seizing thread-loops presented by said loopers and for positioning the looper-presented loops for entrance by said needles in both the narrowly and more widely spaced work-penetrating movements of the needles.

20. In a sewing machine, a pair of endwise-reciprocatory thread-carrying needles, and mechanism complemental to said needles in the formation of chain-stitches including a pair of loopers having arcuate paths of needle-thread loopseizing movements at the relatively remote sides of said needles and about axes substantially parallel with the paths of needle reciprocation.

21. In a sewing machine, a work-support, work-feeding mechanism, an endwise-reciprocatory and laterally-vibratory needle, needle-actuating mechanism including means for vibrating said needle crosswise of the line of feed, and mechanism complemental to said needle in the formation of chain-stitches including a looper having a fixed needle-thread loop seizing path of movement defining a field substantially parallel with the Work-support.

22. In a sewing machine, an endwise reciprocatry thread-carrying needle, a needle-thread loop-seizing looper, means for actuating said looper, a loop-detainer having an arcuate path of movement in substantially tangential relation with the needle-path of reciprocation and about an axis transverse to said needle-path, and means for actuating said loop-detainer in timed relation to seize thread-loops from said looper and to present the same for entrance by said needle.

23. Ina sewing machine, work-feeding mechanism, a vertically reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, a needle-thread loop-seizing looper, means for actuating said looper, a loop-detainer having an arcuate path of movement in substantially tangential relation with the needle-path of reciprocation and about a substantially horizontal axis transverse to the direction of feed, and means for actuating said loop-detainer in timed relation to seize thread-loops from said looper and to present the same for entrance by said needle.

24. In a sewing machine, an endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, a needle-thread loop-seizing looper, means for actuating said looper, a loop-detainer having an arcuate path of movement in substantially tangential relation with the needle-path of reciprocation and about an axis transverse to said needle-path, said loopdetainer having lengthwise thereof a needle-receiving groove, and means for actuating said loop-detainer in timed relation to seize threadloops from said looper and to present the same for entrance by said needle.

25. In a sewing machine, an endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, a looper cooperating with said needle having endwise loop-seizing movements in an arcuate path about an axis substantially parallel with the needle-path of reciprocation, means for actuating said looper, a loopdetainer having an arcuate path of movement in substantially tangential relation with the needlepath of reciprocation about an axis transverse to said needle-path, said loop-detainer having lengthwise thereof a needle-receiving groove, and means for actuating said loop-detainer in timed 35 relation to seize thread-loops from said looper and to present the same for entrance by said needle.

26. In a sewing machine, work-feeding mechanism, an endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory thread-carrying needle, means for imparting to said needle work-penetrating movements in paths spaced crosswise of the line of feed, a needle-thread loop-seizing looper, means for actuating said looper, a loop-detainer having 145 an arcuate path of movement in substantially tangential relation with the path of needle reciprocation, said loop-detainer having lengthwise thereof a groove adapted to receive the needle in its spaced paths of reciprocation, and means for actuating said loop-detainer in timed relation to seize thread-loops from said looper and present the same to said needle.

27. In a sewing machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needles, a pair of loopers cooperating with said needles in the seizure of thread-lo ops therefrom, means for actuating said loopers, a pair of loop-detaining fangs cooperating with said loopers having therebetween a thread-receiving slot terminating in a shank common to both fangs, and means for actuating said fangs in arcuate paths substantially tangential to the needle-paths of reciprocation about an axis transverse to said needle-path.

28. In a sewing machine, work-feeding mechanism, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needles arranged abreast with respect to the direction of feed, needle-actuating mechanism including means for vibrating said needles in directions toward and from each other to perform narrowly and more widely spaced work-penetrating movements, a work-penetrating piercer reciprocatory in a path between the needles, a pair of loopers having needle-thread loop-seizing paths of movement at the sides of said needles opposite to the piercer sides thereof, means for actuating said loopers, a pair of adjacent loop-detainers having arcuate paths of movement intersecting the looper paths in substantially tangential relation with the needles, said loop-detainers having lengthwise thereof grooves entered by the needles in their spaced paths of reciprocation, and means for actuating said loop-detainers.

29. In a sewing machine, the combination with an endwise reciprocatory needle, of mechanism complemental to said needle in the formation of chain-stitches, including a looper supported for endwise needle-thread loop-seizing movements in an arcuate path about an axis substantially parallel with the path of needle reciprocation and for sidewise movements about an axis transverse to said endwise movement axis, a rotary actuating shaft having a gyratory inclined crank, and operative connections between said crank and the looper-supporting means for imparting both the endwise and sidewise movements to said looper.

30. In a sewing machine, the combination with a vertically reciprocatory needle, of mechanism complemental to said needle in the formation of chain-stitches, including a needle-thread loopseizing looper, a vertically disposed rock-shaft carrying said looper, a rocking member providing a bearing for said rock-shaft supported for pivotal movements about a substantially horizontal axis, and means for rocking said shaft about its longitudinal axis and for rocking said member upon its support.

31. In a sewing machine, the combination with a vertically reciprocatory needle, of mechanism complemental to said needle in the formation of chain-stitches, including a needle-thread loopseizing looper, a vertically disposed rock-shaft carrying said looper, a rocking member providing a bearing for said rock-shaft supported for pivotal movements about a substantially horizontal axis, a rotary shaft having a gyratory inclined crank, and operative connections with said inclined crank for actuating said rock-shaft about its longitudinal axis and for rocking said member upon its support to thereby impart endwise and sidewise movements to said looper.

32. In a sewing machine, the combination with a vertically reciprocatory needle, of mechanism complemental to said needle in the formation of chain-stitches, including a needle-thread loopseizing looper, a vertically disposed rock-shaft carrying said looper, a rocking member providing a bearing for said rock-shaft supported for pivotal movements about a substantially horizontal axis, a rotary shaft having a gyratory inclined crank, a crank-arm carried by said rockshaft, a sleeve embracing said inclined crank, and a pivotal connection between said crank-arm and sleeve.

33. In a sewing machine, the combination with a pair of vertically reciprocatory needles, of mechanism complemental to said needles in the formation of chain-stitches, including a pair of needle-thread loop-seizing loopers, a pair of looper-carriers, a rotary shafthaving a pair of gyratory inclined cranks offset at their opposite ends from the axis of rotation of said shaft, and operative connections between said inclined cranks and said looper-carriers adapted to transmit endwise and sidewise movements to said loopers.

34. In a sewing machine, the combination with a pair of vertically reciprocatory needles, of mechanism complemental to said needles in the formation of chain-stitches, including a pair of needle-thread loop-seizing loopers, a pair of looper-carriers, a rotary shaft having a pair of oppositely inclined gyratory cranks arranged in end-to-end relationship upon the shaft, and operative connections between said inclined cranks and said looper-carriers adapted to transmit endwise and sidewise movements to said loopers.

35. In a sewing machine, a work-support, work-feeding mechanism, a pair of vertically reciprocatory thread-carrying needles arranged abreast with respect to the direction of feed, a pair of loopers cooperating with said needles below the work-support in the seizure of needlethread loops, means for actuating said loopers, a needle-guiding head disposed below the work support having downwardly converging opposed needle-guiding faces and having a wedge-shaped needle-separating fin of downwardly increasing width intermediate said needle-guiding faces, and means for rocking said needle-guiding head in differentially timed relationship with respect to said loopers.

36. In a sewing machine, a vertically reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, mechanism complemental to said needle in the formation of chain-stitches including a thread-carrying loop er cooperating withsaid needle in the seizure of thread-loops therefrom, a looper-carrier, a rotary actuating shaft having a gyratory inclined crank, a sleeve embracing said inclined crank, operative connections between said sleeve and the looper-carrier for actuating said looper, and a looper-thread take-up member carried by said sleeve.

3'7. In a hemstitching machine, work-feeding mechanism, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needles, a reciprocatory workpenetrating piercer, a thread-carrying looper cooperating with one of said needles in the formation of double-thread chain-stitches, a nonthread carrying looper cooperating with the other needle in the formation of single-thread chain-stitches, and means for actuating said loopers.

38. In a hemstitching machine, work-feeding mechanism, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needles arranged abreast with respect to the direction of feed, needle-actuating mechanism including means for vibrating said needles in directions toward and from each other to perform narrowly and more widely spaced work-penetrating movements, a workpenetrating piercer reeiprocatory in a path between the needles, a thread-carrying looper 00-- operating with one of said needles in the seizure of thread-loops therefrom, means for seizing and presenting loops of looper-thread for entrance by said needle, a non-thread carrying looper cooperating with the other needle in the seizure of thread-loops therefrom, and means for presenting for entrance by said other needle the needle-thread loops seized by the non-thread carrying looper.

39. In a hemstitching machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needles, needle-actuating mechanism including means for vibrating said needles in directions toward and from each other to perform narrowly and more widely spaced work-penetrating movements, a piercer having a reciprocatory work-penetrating path of movement between the needles, mechanism complemental to said needles in the formation of two rows of single-thread chain-stitches, and mechanism for advancing the work a less number of times than the number of needle reciprocations.

40. In a sewing machine, a vertically reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needle, looper mechanism complemental to said needle in the formation of chain-stitches, a throat-plate provided with a needle-slot and with a feed-dog slot rearwardly of and opening into said needle-slot, a feed-dog operating in said feed-dog slot, means for imparting a less number of forward work-advancing movements to said feeddog than the number of needle reciprocations and for retarding the return movements of said feed-dog to provide thread-chain clearance in said feed-dog slot.

41. In a sewing machine, a vertically reciprocatory' and laterally vibratory needle, workfeeding mechanism, a throat-plate provided with a needle-slot transverse to the direction of feed and with a feed-dog slotdisposed rearwardly of and opening into said needle-slot, said workfeeding mechanism including a feed-dog of which one end has a rising work-engaging movement within said needle-slot.

42. In a hemstitching machine, work-feeding mechanism, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needles arranged abreast with respect to the direction of feed, needle-actuating mechanism including means for vibrating said needles in directions toward and from each other to perform narrowly and more 'widely spaced work-penetrating movements, a work-penetrating piercer reeiprocatory in a path between the needles, a'throat-plate provided with a needleand-piercer slot extending transversely of the direction of feed and with a pair of feed-dog slotsdisposed rearwardly of and opening into said needle-slot, said work-feeding mechanism including adjacent feed-dog members of which the front ends have a rising work-engaging movement within said needle-slot.

.ALBERT H. DE VOE. 

